4 days of bliss and beauty at "The Liquid Jewel"

I went on a min-vacation with my Albanian piano-teacher friend to Ohrid, Macedonia (“the place with continuous life for 7000 years!”). It was one of my favorite 4 days…ever. The best part about the trip was staying with Macedonian sisters (22- and 24-years-old) that we met on the street, their boat taxi-driving dad, and their wonderful, toothless, 82-year-old grandma. We basically lived their lives for 4 days – and were introduced to “real ohrid.” Although the town was crammed with tourists (mainly Macedonian), we were nearly always with Ohrid-ites... which was so wonderful.

My top 12 moments/highlights about Ohrid–

1. 1. The sisters were very sweet about letting/inviting us to tag along with them. The trip would have been entirely different if we had not met them. They took us to their favorite “beach” (a dock-like area with about 6 other people) every day, took us places in their dad’s boat (including a mini-coastal tour of sorts), let us sleep in their room for 4 nights, and introduced us to their people – nearly all artists, musicians, and such. It was fantastic.



2. The oldest sister always wore an 18-year-old Steelers backpack. She loves the bag…and didn’t know who/what the Steelers are. :) The other sister was totally into yummy-flavored vitamins – and would smoke 2 or 3 cigarettes while we popped back vitamin-flavored drink and ate watermelon.


3. I swam – not just splashed around, but I was able to swim (sometimes with a snorkel and goggles). I love being in water.


4. Before we left Gjilan, I made baked oatmeal for breakfasts. It was so much fun to eat it with my friend (“you cannot imagine how beautiful this flavor is for me…”) and the toothless g-ma who liked it so much that she kissed my cheeks in between bites.


5. The g-ma was a huge highlight. We’d sit and hold hands while she talked and talked. She’s a lonely woman who didn’t mind if I couldn’t understand her Macedonian and Turkish (she spoke both to me hoping that I’d catch more…didn’t work). And although we tried to insist that she not cook for us, she made us chicken and rice…and then the most amazing smoked fish and buttery mashed potatoes :).


6. While waiting to shower, I watched a TV special on…wait for it…Woodward Camp, PA (super-close to my home)! What?!? It was in French with Macedonian subtitles, and the family thought it was hilarious when I’d jump out of my seat and dance over street signs that I recognized. Seriously, though…a Woodward Camp TV special?!?


7. The cost: 15 euros for transportation (although that included one VERY hot bus ride); 5 euros/night; and not much on food bc we didn’t eat out. Sweet!


8. My friend and I got some sunburn, and the faboo g-ma drenched cloths in rakia (40-55% alcohol…and tastes like hairy armpit) and wrapped us like mummies. I’m sure putting alcohol on sunburn isn’t quite the best thing to do, but it felt great - and “when in Ohrid…”



9. 9. We went to part of a piano and flute recital in an old Byzantine Church (the frescos were so neat!). The next night we went to an opera in an outdoor theatre that overlooks the lake (dates back to 2nd century BC). We sat with local 20-somethings on a hill…which 3 of us sort of rolled down while attempting to get out of others’ way. Little did we know the hill was covered in thorns (although it was immensely funny at the time). During the 2nd movement, we ate pizza at a little restaurant that overlooks the theatre. How swell...
   
10. We sat on a “security boat” (the host dad’s boat) and watched a 30K swimming race. It was enormously impressive. Although the Bulgarian winner dude was amazing, the most interesting part was watching cops on boats attempting to zip around to confiscate alcohol (the sisters kept wanting to watch with my camera’s zoom).


11. Although I couldn’t (nor would I want to) sustain this, we stayed out until 4 and 5am. It was light when I got home! And it was so neat (and refreshing) to hang out with artsy Ohrid-ites in a jazz club. Man, I miss this flavor of people!


12. It was great to spend time with my Albanian friend. We were able to have a couple of neat conversations, and I am so thankful for her friendship and the opportunity to discover Ohrid with her.

I’d go back tomorrow if I could. Sigh. Smiles.